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Style: Does Koutney make the cut?

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Every time I see a predominantly black collection I wonder about the creative merit of the designer. Are they using an all black palette because they are trying to make some sort of statement? Or, are they compensating for lack of resources? Brilliance or complete lack there of – Alexander Koutney’s collection hath four times rang the black on black bell with its 'ode-to-noir' for fall 2009-10. I am making the attempt to overlook the vampiric appeal, simply because his silhouettes are a successful venture in autumn wonderland.


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Let’s face it, adding oodles of volume to a garment is hard to achieve without it looking like a pin-tucked trash bag. So for any designer to make something fashionable with structure in mind, shows that they didn’t just pull out any ole Singer yesterday and decide to design on a whim -- they actually had a bit of training. Koutney’s educational background began in philosophy before branching out into commercial design, which might explain why his clothing aspire to depict emotional states. Hailing from South Africa, via a brief romp in the eclectic streets of London, Koutney’s design sense seems to be more austere than tribal, using more organic shapes than the eclectic patterns one would expect from such a voyage.


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Now if I might point out the pink elephant in the room: Koutney’s fall collection remind me of a young (and maybe depressed) Proenza Schouler, though he succeeds in bringing his own flavor to the party bag. His designs are skillfully baggy, surprising sophisticated, and refreshingly youthful -- alla ‘Genny’ from ‘Gossip Girls’ fame. For more information check out his website at www.alexanderkoutny.com.

*ms.b

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Diary of a shoe whore: Piercing my sole

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Though I am absolutely bored to death with faddish shoes -- like the ‘Jesus’ sandal, which has managed to trickle it’s way down to Target and have an ungraceful death at Payless -- I will never tire of the platform nosebleed stilettos. Firstly, all stilettos, and especially the tight-rope variety, lengthen your legs in ways God hasn’t imagined. Secondly, they make any item look glamorous – even that damn ‘boyfriend’ look, which we must admit doesn’t work on every body type. And finally, there are designers like Guillaume Hinfray, who make you want to abandon all things orthopedic.

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Ah yes, to be the strategically placed signature piercing on a Guillaume Hinfray sling back – what stories would I, said piercing, have to tell. Maybe, a bit about my designer’s Normandy roots, or how he journeyed through the world of French Couture and some how landed the upper echelon of Italian shoe manufacturing. It is a mixture of his ‘melting-pot’ background that provides Hinfray with his inspiration. And one could only wonder what part of his background his signature piercing hails from.

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There is more to his shoe collection than his beguiling choice of accent jewelry. One could completely overlook that detail, and focus on his otherwise classic sense of design and his fine shoemaking. With names like Johanne, Simon, and Agata, Himfrays timeless pieces are geared towards the urban sophisticate – maybe one with a couple of chains and a ball gag in her closet.

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For more on Guillaume Hinfray, checkout his website at www.guillaumehinfray.com.

-ms.b

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